I’m a happy customer every time I go to Octopii, especially when I’ve had the fish pie. The restaurant is often so full of locals and tourists that owner Nerine Hoek needs to turn people away. When I go up to pay, I sometimes tease her about the state of her sad failed business … not!

Nerine always wanted to be a chef. Her lawyer dad wanted her to follow in his footsteps, but instead Nerine went straight into culinary school in South Africa and worked in hotels before moving to the UK to work in restaurants and cafes. ‘It was never anything else but cooking for me. I was very fortunate because I always knew that. Many young people today, even people my age, have no idea what they want to do. I was very, very lucky that I just always knew there was never going to be anything else.’

Nerine was born in Johannesburg and lived there until moving at age 21 to the UK where she met her Australian husband. ‘We moved to Canberra for eight years, but always wanted to live along the coast. We drove through Bermagui many years ago on our way to a wedding in Kianinny, stopping at the pub for some lunch. I remember saying to him, “My gosh, can you imagine living here? This being home?” Five years later, this was our home. I applied for jobs all along the coast, and the first job that came up was head chef at Mimosa Winery, so we moved up here. It just kind of happened that way. Serendipity.’

While Nerine enjoyed being a head chef at the beautiful Mimosa Winery, she had always wanted her own restaurant. ‘We managed to get the location at what we call Little Octopii, the original one across the bridge. It was just big enough for me. I could handle it on my own, so that was where we started.’

From that very intimate space, Nerine built a beloved local institution. The new location at Fishermen’s Wharf is a much bigger venue, a leap that must have felt like a big risk. ‘Yes, the new location has been very well received. We’re getting a lot more tourists and out of towners, which is teaching us a lot of new lessons, and the locals do enjoy it too. I can only give credit to the locals who have supported us this whole time. They’ve never let us down. If something is wrong, they’ll always tell us so that we can fix it rather than bag us out to other people. They’re always in our corner, and we fix things where we can. We try and make sure, especially with the locals, that everyone gets what they need, and by doing that, you’re the place where they feel important. That’s what you want. You want people to have a place where they can go and feel like they’re being heard and seen and appreciated. You also get to watch the kids growing up, and the dogs coming through, and people’s lives evolving in front of you. It’s just part of being in a community, really.’

Nerine Hoek (centre) with staffers Jess (left) and Jasinta (right). Photos: Flick Ruby.

The location is rather marvellous, especially sitting outside by the water on a beautiful day with the mountain looming large on the horizon. ‘You’re watching the boats come in, and then you’re getting fresh fish and clams and lobsters and everything straight off the boat. You can’t get better than that. I don’t think it happens anywhere. I just love cooking fresh seafood. Because there are so few chefs around in rural Australia, I’m in the kitchen about 90% of the time. I’m learning a lot but I’m also juggling a lot and trying to find time for me.’

‘It’s very good to be a part of this community. I wouldn’t change it for the world. I can’t imagine living anywhere else. It’s so beautiful, in the morning, in the evenings, every day. There is something pretty special about the Bermagui community. It just draws people in. Tourists and locals all say the same thing. Many come through and kind of just stay.’

You can hear Nerine on this month’s Triangle Community podcast.

Flick Ruby