by Angela Marshall

We’re deep in one of the coldest winters that I have experienced in the past twenty-five years in this region. So, to acknowledge this, I want to concentrate on those winter crops that revel in cold temperatures: those whose flavours improve and sweeten when the nights are genuinely cold, not just a bit nippy. Among the best winter sweeties are Brussel sprouts, fennel bulbs, parsnips and all citrus fruit. Some of these won’t even bear a decent crop when the winter is too mild (here’s looking at you, Brussels sprouts!) but the difference a run of seriously cold nights makes to all of them is amazing. These aren’t recipes per se, just guidelines for making them a delicious part of winter.

Brussels sprouts

Let’s get these little beauties out of the way first – do not allow them to become too big and floppy, do not boil them and do not leave them whole. For all recipes, pick them small and tight, trim off the base, discard the outer leaves (and check for aphids and any dirt while you’re at it), cut in half and then either oven roast them or sauté them. You can go simple – just a slick of olive oil, salt and pepper; or add caramelised onion, some finely sliced garlic, freshly grated Parmesan, cubes of cooked spuds or even some finely chopped bacon. Over to you!

Fennel bulb

Another great winter veg when treated with respect. It pairs beautifully with fish (think  Greek fish stew) or chicken (a tray-bake of chicken pieces with fennel and a squeeze of lemon juice) and is perfectly lovely by itself as a gratin for a light supper with crusty bread. It has a fresh, aromatic flavour and can be roasted, sautéed or added to soups and sauces. Cooking it long and slow brings out a mellow sweetness that can become addictive. A slow-cooked shoulder of lamb on a bed of roasted fennel and carrots kept moist with orange juice is as good a winter dinner as you’ll find anywhere.

Parsnip

The world is divided into those that love parsnip and those who hate it. But for those of us who crave it, it’s a taste like no other – sweet, earthy, nutty. Dig them up, scrub clean and roast, steam for mash or turn them into a delicious soup. For soup, I start with onions and a couple of leeks on a drizzle of olive oil, once soft add a chopped potato (for added silkiness) and a carrot or two (mainly for colour – white soup isn’t alluring) and a heap of chopped parsnips. As they soften add a dash of curry powder and balance out with salt and pepper to taste. But the classic must be roast parsnips – with a roast or as a side dish, by themselves or with other root veg for company.

And citrus fruits because they are particularly marvellous this year – so sweet, so juicy and so generous. Add lemon or lime juice or slices to savoury dishes to lift the flavour of all ingredients, mix any citrus fruits together for healthy, delicious juices and eat oranges at half-time. You can freeze the juice in ice cube trays for refreshing summer drinks, make citrus flavoured cakes and puddings, and there is always any number of variations in the key of marmalade.